This will be a simple 2 piece mold. On a piece of thick cardboard,
use modeling clay to create the form that will evetually become the
second piece of your mold. Do this by embedding half of your mace in
bock of modeling clay. Make sure you have an adequate thickness all
around the mace, including the underside (depending on the type of silicone,
1/4 inch is probably adequate). You may wish to coat the side of the
mace you are going to embed with a very thin coat of vaseline before
embedding it to facilatate separation later on.
Once the mace is embedded, VERY CAREFULLY sculpt the edges where
the mace meets the clay. Any small gaps, underhangs, or overhangs will
be picked up by the silicone when you pour your mold. The cleaner the
edge, the better you mold will be. This is the hardest, most time consuming
step in the whole process, and I found it frustrating until I learned
to view mold-making as a craft just as challenging as creating the original
to be molded. In fact, I usually spend more time with this step than
with creating the original piece.
Now create some registration bumps, both positive and negative, to
make lining up you mold idiot-proof. These bumps can extend all the
way to the edge of the block so it makes it easier visually to orient
your 2 mold pieces before pressing them together.
Now use cardboard and tape to create a box around your modeling clay
block. You can cut away some of your clay to get a goodfit. Use a sculpting
tool to blend the clay block in with the cardboard walls so you don't
get silicone seeping down the sides and out the bottom when you pour.
Reinforce the bottom with a strip of modeling clay (which will also
help prevent the silicone from running everywhere if if does seep down
between the clay and the cardboard walls).
Put some vaseline on a small brush and brush the cardboard and clay
with a very thick coat of vaseline. This will facilitate separation
of the silicone after your first pour, as well as helping to smooth
out any bumps in your modeling clay. This is also wise because I have
read that silicone won't cure properly if in contact with some types
of modeling clay. Note that it may be wise to avoid putting vaseline
on the exposed part of the mace, because you want it to remain in the
silicone you are about to pour for as long as possible.
Mix your silicone per instructions. It is best to use a gram scale
to get your proportions right. Pour it slowly and carefully into your
box, being sure that any underhangs get filled. Tap the box to help
bubbles rise to the surface. Let the silicone cure per instructions.
Remove the bottom piece of cardboard while leaving the side pieces
in place. Very carefully remove all the modeling clay from the silicone
and the mace, trying to leave the mace embedded in the silicone. If
it comes out, it is not a disaster, just push it back into the silicone
once you have removed all of the clay (you will get a cleaner second
silicone pour if the mace remains embedded in the first piece of silicone
as a seal is created between the mace and the silicone).
Use a small brush to coat the mace, silicone, and cardboard with vaseline.
This is extremely important! If you don't create a vaseline barrier
over the first silicone pour, your second silicone pour will adhere
to it, and your mold will be ruined. Now mix and pour the silicone into
the box, creating the second and final half of your mold. After the
silicone cures, remove the cardboard walls and pull the two mold halves
apart. Remove the mace from one half, and you should have a beautiful
mace mold...now it is time to reap the fruit of your labor!
But wait...maybe it isn't quite time. If you want your mold to last
as long as possible, it may be wise to coat it with silicone lubricant
before using it the first time (and every so ofter thereafter). We use
Aervoe Pacific, Tool Mates brand. See casting
This part is really quite easy. Dust your mold with a thin layer of
metal powder. I just spread a little around, put the two mold halves
together, and shake-shake-shake.
Next mix your alumilite (2 grams should be sufficient for a small weapon
like a mace). Again, it is best to use a gram scale as it is important
to get equal amounts of Part A and Part B.
Pour the mixed alumilite into each half of the mold quickly but carefully
(overflow is OK). You can bend the mold to help the alumilite find its
way into the nooks and crannies.
Use a poker to make sure you don't have any trapped air bubbles.
Squash the two sides together...your registration bumps should make
the two halves of the mold line up perfectly. Press firmly but not too
hard, as you want to force all the excess Alumilite out of the cast
without distorting the mold.
Allow the plastic to cure.
Gently pull the two mold halves apart.
remove the plastic mace from the mold.
Use your fingernails and/or an exacto knife to trim off the excess plastic
along the seam.
Now hopefully you have a beautiful mace that you can reproduce as many
times as you like. Perfection is very difficult to achieve...we often
get air bubbles and such. Look for a casting tips and tricks page in
We have developed these techniques by trial and error. Our first molds
were really bad, mostly because we didn't have any clue as to what we
were doing. Hopefully this tutorial will help you create nice molds
starting with your very first try, but don't be discouraged if your
first attempts don't go so well.
O.K., freak, go have some fun! Fill in the blanks that Playmobil®
won't fill themselves. Create your own theme! And if you found this
tutorial helpful in created something nifty (or mundane, we love it
all), please send us a picture!
Also, please feel free to send us your own tips, tricks, techniques,
Alumilite's How To Section